It is possible I've already written some of this, but I don't have time to go back through my posts and figure out if I have, so here goes. La Fortuna is an odd place to live for me because of the focus of the downtown. The entire town is built around tourism. While in the outlying areas they are still some farmers, for the most part tourism is how the majority of the people around here make a living.
I live in a neighborhood, Z-13, next door to the school I teach at, about 3 km up the main road from La Fortuna. The neighborhood I live in is Costa Rican (or in places Nicaraguan, since there are many immigrants here) through and through. This is a sharp contrast to the main road down to La Fortuna, which has hotels and restaurants all along its length aimed at tourists who stop on their way to and from the the volcano.
One aspect which I have been enjoying of living near such a touristy town is the coffee shops in town. There are two main ones which I frequent. One is called Rainforest Cafe, though as far as I know it has no relation to the Rainforest Cafes in the US. This one has the best iced coffees and the people there are nice and helpful.
The other one is the Vienna Cafe. Full disclosure, the owner is dating my host sister, so I know him and am biased towards it, but it is very good. There brownies are excellent and their coffee quite good. Both places have fast internet and are good bets if visiting La Fortuna.